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Scuba Diving in Lanzarote
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Dive Site: Charco del Palo
Location: Near Mala, northern Lanzarote
Description: Reef dive
Depth: 0 - 60 metres (0 - 180 feet)
Visibility: 25 - 50 metres + (80 - 165 feet)
Rating: ****
A tour de force of marine creatures inhabiting the stunning lava scenery that makes up this dive site. With lava formations and sand plateaus on a grand scale and a variety of marine creatures is why this place is popular with local and tourist divers alike.
Mention Charco Del Palo or Mala to some divers and a broad grin may be returned as they remember their dive there. To the north of the island is the village of Mala and on its coast, is the small village of Charco del Palo (Paloma). Here the lava cliffs have tumbled wildly in to the sea probably from the ancient eruption of the volcano that dominates this landscape, Montana Corona.
It is also on this coastline that many lava tubes have formed, some broken and collapsed (jameos) and here sea arches can be seen at the shoreline, which plunges steeply in to the sea. The access point is therefore a small lagoon area, after a small walk down a sand covered pathway off the cliff, passing the local nudists (no peeking now!).
There are two dives to be had, the deep first dive and the shallow second dive, both start in the lagoon at 5m which at times has large collections of bream or even barracuda swaying in surge. The first dive moves directly out, then 60 degrees across a field of smoothed black large pebbles where many blennies, scorpionfish, armoured starfish and the occasional octopus occur, usually in black and white. This drops to around 15m, where a ridge is picked up on the left and followed. Here the panorama opens out into a marvellous vista, the ridge descends but to the right a massive white patch of sand occurs, locally known as the football pitch because of its proportions and size. This starts horizontal before arching to depths and contrasts sharply with the rich blue water above.
The water is very clean at this point, so much so the visibility can be stunning. Following the ridge out and down it is covered in a proliferation of encrusting sponges and black urchins, whilst dense patches of ornate or Turkish wrasse congregate and above clouds of fluttering damselfish varieties occur. At about 33m is a small enclave where hundreds of shrimps may be viewed. At this point usually the dive is at its halfway point. The main problem is several divers seem to think they are in shallower depths than they actually are, owing to the clear visibility. It is therefore up to the guide to ensure divers are coerced into returning.
The lava from Montana Corona obliterated the best part of the pristine white sands, with huge fiery blocks of fragmented rock pummelling the surrounding district. The lava flowed slowly north and eastward until it hit the sea where it cooled. Lanzarote is the top of an undersea mountain, so the lava stopped at its flanks whilst undersea, the sand remains on its upper portions. Here, in the north of the island the "mountain" drops away fast to over 3000m not many metres offshore.
Depth can be "felt" at the 30-40m, so it's best to return to the upper levels where different types of lava formations can be viewed almost as formed with rope and pillow lava up to 15m or so. The caverns around are home to tiger morays and other masters of disguise. The lagoon hopefully once more appears as the coastline is similar!
Our second dive is shallower, this time going southwards to the half-tide rock, which can easily be seen from the surface by the waves breaking upon it. The surface interval can be spent in one of the local bars, but don't be offended as local nudists visit; it is part of the natural culture of this village.
Once more into the lagoon, we take a more southerly course to a ridge of rock characterised by a small cleft cut out of it at around 12m. The lava is very grey in appearance contrasting sharply with the black smoothed rocks. Urchins or diadema are in profusion, but look out for angel sharks and large-scaled scorpionfish that grow to large proportions here.
A tour around the area reveals many enclaves of twisted lava, covered in a smattered of colourful encrusting sponges. Some of these are home to brown morays, so it's well worth looking. From a depth of 15m heading roughly northwards a distinct ridge of battleship grey lava is picked up, its top a kilt formation of pleats, the base more smooth.
A swirling mass of green weed and urchins seems to be in tune with the surge flying over the rocks at 12m. Going east along the ridge, a lava tube is found. Entering is a great experience, it is 2m wide or so and has many urchins at its base which would like to inflict harm to passing divers! The tube terminates within the half tide rock, where an open cavern looks out, but at its other end is a hole containing a large brown moray and attendant shrimps. This guy has been here for years.
Small cardinal fish dance in the caverns entrance and the whole scene is relaxing. Crossing the hinterland the lagoon end is picked up where a corner reveals a dark area, an entrance to a swim through which should only be attempted during slacker periods. The smoothed pebbles give its presence away and on entering reveals a plethora of sponges only associated with these netherworlds. You could be forgiven with the outstanding water clarity, that it's actually air and not water. It's a return trip so turning around and entering the lagoon is the final step in this dive. Don't rush though, as many blennies and water column fish are around, enjoy the moment as exit could be good or a little challenging!
Tony Gilbert
Charco del Palo Resources
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